Ossetian Pie: A Feast for the Gods

Ossetian pie with beetroot leafs. Picture from webpizza.ru.

In Ossetia a collective meal called "kuvd" with its toast-prayers serves as the main expression of reverence for God. The Ossetians turn to God in joy and in sorrow; whether it is a wedding, or a funeral, family meeting, or birthday, there is always an occasion for a feast. Not surprisingly, the process of food preparation and the eating customs of the ancient Ossetian culture are ritual and ceremonial in nature, and play an important role in the socio-cultural life of the people.

Boiled meat, starchy foods, and Ossetian cheese constitute staple products of Ossetian cuisine, which has its roots in hearty food needed to sustain farmers, hunters, and shepherds, who worked long days in the country's rugged mountains.. The Ossetian pie is made of a juicy filling wrapped in yeasty dough. The traditional shape of the pie is round with a whole in the middle, while triangular pies are baked for special festive occasions. The shapes of the ritual foods have a special meaning. The circle symbolizes the earth, infinity, and completeness, while the triangle represents the earth's fertile power, physical stability, and continuity.

The presence of certain types of pies on the table can help determine the nature of the feast. Pies with salty Ossetian Feta cheese are prepared for everyday eating, as well as special occasions. These pies are the trademark of Ossetian cuisine. But other fillings are also used, such as potatoes, mushrooms, pumpkin, cabbage, and even beetroot leaves. Pies with meat are baked for special celebrations.

Ossetian pies with cheese. Picture from gastronom.ru.

Traditionally, only women have the privilege of making pies. "Putting hands in the dough" was considered a great loss of face for men. Pies with a thin layer of dough and an abundance of juicy filling, which is concealed by the crust, are considered the best. Thick, fleshy pies are a sign of an inexperienced baker.

The dough for pies is prepared from wheat flour with the addition of yeast. Because of the weather, grain has always been limited, giving wheat a special, even sacred, place in Ossetian culture. The Ossetian name for the wheat is "meneu", which literally means "my grass".

Bread, as well as these ceremonial pastries, plays an important role in Ossetian culture, serving as a mediator between human beings and heavenly powers. In fact insulting the bread meant the same thing as insulting the family and the saints simultaneously. From early childhood Ossetian people are accustomed to having a respectful attitude to food in general, and to baking in particular.

In ancient times, ritual food was prepared in compliance with strict rules. A week before a holiday or other festive event a ritual washing of wheat grain took place in a river, or stream, always in flowing water. While the washed grain was drying on canvases spread out on the river banks, girls and young women would celebrate with music and food. The dried grain was ground in the best mill in the area, and stored in a clean place.

Ossetian festive pie with meat. Picture from turizm24.ru.

At the time of the dough preparation, fresh water was brought in from the best mountain creek in the area. The entire process of dough preparation and then pie making took place in complete silence. Moreover, women carefully washed their hands, and put on headscarves in such a way that their mouths were covered. It was believed that such actions would protect the pies from the exhaled air, or from any possible "insult" in the process of the ritual action. Even today many Ossetian women avoid baking pies with their head uncovered. Otherwise, the purpose of their work, allegedly, will not be achieved, and the pies and other sacrificial food will be rejected.

For all occasions, except for funerals, three pies are served on the table. At a large festive table there are usually several dishes with three pies on each one. Number three is particularly respected in Ossetia. The three pies represent a three-dimensional structure of the universe, its heaven, earth, and underground spheres. Three pies arranged vertically were associated with the three major categories of life: God, the Sun, and the Earth. Laid one upon another on a plate, they symbolize a model of the universe. In the case of a funeral meal, a middle pie symbolizing the sun was absent, while the symbols of the earth and God remained unchanged.

Before giving the first toast-prayer, the most senior and respected man at the table would slightly move the pies against each over so that it is obvious that there are three of them. One should eat Ossetian pies only by hands nipping off small pieces from the edge, not from the middle. Biting pies is considered very rude.

Ossetian cuisine has not developed in isolation. While preserving its own peculiar characteristics, it is inseparably connected to other nations' cuisines, particularly the Caucasus nations. In turn, Ossetian dishes, especially Ossetian pies, are enjoyed throughout the Caucasus.

An illustrated step-by step guide on how to make an Ossetian Pie: http://ossetians.com/eng/news.php?newsid=410&f=34

Sources:

http://cominf.org/en/node/1166476084
http://kulinolog.ru/2008/08/blog-post.html